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INSTRUCTIONS 

FOR THE RAISING OF 

PHEASANTS 




i 



ISSUED BY 

STATE OF VERMONT 

DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND GAME 

H. P. SHELDON 

COMMISSIONER 



■( gJ 



CAPITAL CITY PRESS, MONTPELIER. VT. 



REMEMBER, SPORTSMEN 

The Farmer is Your Best 

FRIEND 



PUT UP HIS BARS AND CLOSE HIS GATES. 

CRAWL THRU, OVER OR UNDER HIS 
FENCES— WITHOUT BREAKING THEM DOWN. 

GO AROUND HIS NEWLY PLANTED FIELDS. 
This is a square deal to him, and it is your patriotic 
duty to spare crops. 

ASK PERMISSION TO HUNT ON HIS POSTED 

LAND — He will surely meet you half way. 

DON'T INJURE OR DISTURB HIS CHICKENS 
OR CATTLE, OR LET YOUR DOG WORRY THEM. 

PUT OUT YOUR CAMP OR LUNCH FIRE BE- 
FORE LEAVING, AND THUS PROTECT HIS 

PROPERTY AND YOl)R. -HUNTING GROUND. 

••» 

REMEMBER THAT WITHOUT HIS GOOD 

WILL— THERE CAN BE NO SPORT AFIELD. 

FISH AND GAME DEPARTMENT 

of 



4Mm 

RESS 



RECEIVED 

MAR? 1922 

DOCUMENTS DIVISION 



TO THE 

SPORTSMAN 

AND 

FARMER 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/instructionsforrOOverm 



Preface 




HE time has arrived to assist our native 
upland game birds by introduction of a 
new species in Vermont. Bad breeding 
seasons, disease, and a constant increase 
the number of bird hunters — these 
are \hree things which combine to make the natural 
propagation of grouse far more uncertain than it was 
twenty years ago. The artificial propagation of our 
own ruffed grouse is held to be an impossibility, and 
the only solution to the problem now before Vermont 
sportsmen lies in the introduction of a hardy strain of 
pheasants. By providing a supply of these birds longer 
periods of protection may be given the ruifed grouse 
without subtracting from the total quantity of bird 
shooting now enjoyed by the sportsmen, and a new 
and valuable species will also be added to our list of 
upland game birds. 

The greatest difficulties will be encountered during 
the period of introduction. Methods of hatching and 
feeding will need to be studied, and ways found to pro- 



tect the pheasant from natural enemies and from un- 
scrupulous poachers, but it is hoped that the sports- 
men will unite in their efforts to assist this Department 
until the new bird is thoroughly established and able 
to adapt itself to our natural conditions. Success 
will not come suddenly and completely, but slowly and 
surely, and as. a result of hard work and cheerful co- 
operation among all those who are interested in the con- 
tinuation of our wild life resources. 

Five facts should be kept in mind: 

(i) Pheasant propagation under artificial condi- 
tions presents no great difficulties. 

(2) The pheasant is not injurious to farm crops; 
rather the bird has a direct beneficial influence in de- 
stroying harmful insects. 

(3) The sex markings of the pheasant are so dis- 
tinctive that the hens can be protected during open 
seasons and only male birds shot. 

(4) Clubs, individuals or communities which assist 
in the propagation of these birds will receive the full 
benefit of their own work, as the pheasant has a ten- 
dency to remain in the locality where it is liberated. 



(5) The success of the pheasant enterprise depends 
entirely upon the effectiveness of local protection and 
interest. 

With every hope that the coming years may see the 
pheasant as much a part of our rural scenery as the 
ruffed grouse now is, this pamphlet, the first of its kind 
published in Vermont, is sent out to those who wish to 
cooperate in this important work. 

H. P. SHELDON, 

Commissioner. 



INSTRUCTIONS 




N applicant having received notice that 
he is to have a shipment of pheasant 
eggs should proceed as follows: 

When eggs are received, they should 
be put in a cool place of even tempera- 
ture. This condition can usually be found in a cellar. 
Place eggs in a dish or tray filled with sawdust, dry 
sand or oats, turning them twice daily (morning and 
evening) until they are set. It is best to set eggs as 
soon as possible after receiving them. 

If possible, it is best to provide a coop as described 
in the pamphlet issued by this department, but in case 
this is not convenient, a small box or coop such as a 
farmer uses for the rearing of chickens will do. The 
coop should have no bottom and should be placed on 
the ground. It is best to place coop out-of-doors 
somewhere in the shade of a tree or hedge where the 
hen will not be disturbed by other fowl and where it 
is as quiet as possible. 



Provide a setting box about i6"x i6"x 6". This 
is just a form having no bottom. Fill box one-third 
full of moist earth. Hollow this slightly by pounding. 
Next, place fairly coarse straw within the frame, shap- 
ing slightly and lining with soft hay or grass, but re- 
member that the eggs must lie practically on the ground. 
The nest should have a very moderate incline toward 
the center. When eggs are found piled on top of one 
another when the hen is taken off it usually means that 
the nest is too deep. A nest nearly flat makes it easier 
for the embryo chick to break away from the shell. 
Eggs in any type of nest should be sprinkled with 
tepid water in very dry weather. A little Persian Insect 
Powder applied to the lining of nest will help to keep 
lice and mites away. Only Persian Powder, 
(Pyrethrum), which is procurable at any drug store, 
should be used, as powder containing carbolic is very 
dangerous. 

If possible, secure a hen that is gentle and of light 
weight. Place the hen on some dummy eggs for a day 
or two and when satisfied that she will set steadily, 
place fifteen to eighteen eggs under her. Before setting 
a hen on pheasant eggs, she should be dusted with a 
reliable insect powder to destroy vermin. This should 
be repeated three times during incubation, but never 



after eighteenth day as powder will choke and kill the 
little birds. 

Setting hens should be fed hard corn and should have 
plenty of water. Oyster shells and grit must be sup- 
plied as well as dry earth for a dust bath. The hen 
should be allowed to leave the nest for about twenty 
minutes each day. During this time any broken eggs 
should be removed and all soiled eggs cleansed with a 
warm, damp cloth. 

It is best not to feed a setting hen from the time the 
eggs begin to pip until she is placed in the rearing field. 
Do not remove shell as the chicks come out, as these 
sharp edges keep the hen from setting too heavily on 
the newly hatched chicks. It is best to have full con- 
fidence in the hen and let her alone for twenty-four 
hours after pipping starts. 

The chicks should be allowed to remain under the 
hen for twenty-four hours, then taken with the hen to 
a coop in a field near the house. The orchard makes a 
very good place for rearing young pheasants. The 
same coop used for hatching may be used here. Place 
coop on high, warm ground that is well drained, as 
dampness and cold are very fatal to young game birds 
these first few days. Three boards, one foot high, 
should be placed in front of coop so as to form a pen, 



using front of coop for one end of pen. Remove any 
long grass blades or weeds within coop and pen. Be 
sure there are no small holes through which the chicks 
can escape. It is necessary to keep them from wan- 
dering away from the hen before they have learned her 
call, which takes from two to four days. 

On the fourth day, remove the boards from front of 
coop, still keeping the hen in coop . From this time 
on, and as long as the hen is confined, the coop must be 
moved to fresh ground each day. It is absolutely 
necessary that young pheasants have fresh, clean 
ground. After tenth day, release the hen, allowing her 
to range at large with her birds that they may be able 
to catch the many insects which it is necessary for them 
to have. The hen will usually return to the coop each 
night, but if she does not, don't worry, as she is sure to 
have found a better place close by. A shallow pan of 
water with pebbles in it should be kept in the shade near 
coop. IN NO CASE TRY TO CONFINE THE 
YOUNG BIRDS AFTER THE FOURTH DAY, AS 
THEY WILL SURELY DIE IF THIS IS DONE. 

It will not hurt the young birds if they get some 
dew in early morning. When two weeks old they are 
able to stand any amount of wet weather if not exposed 
to the full force of a hard shower and if they have a 



dry coop as a shelter. They are hardy, and when five 
weeks old are fully feathered and able to take care of 
themselves. 

Young birds should be fed as soon as they are re- 
moved from the nest. Only a small quantity of food 
should be given — never more than the birds will eat 
up clean. Any food left on the ground is harmful to 
young birds. It is best to place some of the food within 
reach of hen as it helps her to teach the chicks to come 
to her call. She also will clean up food left by her 
brood. DO NOT OVER-FEED. This is important. 

The first week the little chicks should be fed four 
times a day. The food should consist of hard-boiled 
eggs chopped fine and mixed with an equal amount of 
slightly moistened stale bread or cracker so as to form 
a crumbly mash. One boiled egg will provide four 
meals for fifteen chicks the first week. It is well to 
mix in a little green food such as lettuce, watercress or 
tender clover, chopped fine — also a little fine grit once 
a day. 

The second week commercial chick grain may be 
added to ratio. Reduce to three meals a day. These 
can be given as follows : Morning meal: chopped boiled 
eggs mixed with an equal amount of slightly moistened 
bread or cracker crumbs to the consistency of a dry 



crumbly mash. Noon meal: chick ' grain moistened 
with water. Evening meal: hard-boiled egg mixed 
with moistened bread or cracker, and one or two 
handfuls of chick grain. If crackers are used be sure 
they contain no salt. 

When birds are two weeks of age the egg food may be 
gradually discontinued until at the age of four weeks the 
food may consist entirely of the chick grain. The young 
birds are very fond of curd (cottage cheese) and this 
may be fed quite often. Clean water should be provid- 
ed at all times. In feeding, it is a good plan to place 
the food on a clean board. This must be cleaned thor- 
oughly after each meal. When six weeks old birds 
will be fully feathered and able to find food for them- 
selves. 

Feed the mother hen a small handful of whole corn 
daily. This will keep the hen in good shape and will 
also keep her from eating the food provided for the 
little birds. 

For All Birds — Young or Old. 

Feed dutch cheese, or curd, and sour milk three or 
four times a week. They like it and it keeps them 
healthy, but be sure there is no salt in it. 



Keep clean fresh water before them. 

See that they have grit, oyster shell and charcoal. 
A little charcoal in their mash is good. 

Green food such as lettuce, onions, beet tops, cab- 
bage, chopped burdock and pig weed is good for them 
and they enjoy it. 

A little beef scrap strengthens the young and the old 
birds and takes the place of bugs they may lack, but be 
sure it is sweet. 

Do not feed more at one time than they will clean up, 
as it will sour and, if they eat it later, it will make them 
sick. 

SHIPMENTS OF YOUNG PHEASANTS. 

In addition to distribution of pheasant eggs, it is the 
plan of the Department to send out limited numbers 
of young pheasants from the State Game Farm. These 
shipments will be made in two ways: (i) broods of 
about fifteen young pheasants with hen foster-mother 
in same crate; (2) consignments of young pheasants 
which are old enough to take care of themselves. 

In either case the applicant should remember that 
pheasants are very shy and should not be handled more 
than is absolutely necessary. The birds must be 
liberated immediately after being received. 



In case of hen and brood, liberate at once in an open 
field near a piece of woods at least one-fourth mile 
from any building. Place the crate on its side, remove 
cover half way and allow hen and chicks to leave the 
crate of their own accord. A handful of grain should 
be scattered and the hen left to call her brood together. 
It is well to throw a little grain occasionally where the 
hen and brood were released. This will usually bring 
them back to same place for food, giving the persons 
interested an opportunity to watch the little pheasants 
grow and develop. 

Well grown pheasants should be taken at once to 
the cover in which it is planned to liberate them. Be- 
fore releasing the birds, scatter grain on the ground 
where it can be easily found. Place the basket on its 
side, slide the cover back about six inches, stand back 
and wait for the birds to come out, which they will do 
in a leisurely manner. After the birds have become 
accustomed to their surroundings the crate can be 
removed. 

Address all communications to WILLIAM H. 
MORRILL, Department of Fish and Game, Mont- 
pelier, Vermont. 



HELP WILD LIFE 

to do its bit 

BIRDS MAKE AGRICULTURE POSSIBLE. 

BY KILLING INSECTS AND RODENT PESTS, 
THEY SAVE CROPS WORTH MILLIONS OF 
DOLLARS. 

FISH AND GAME FURNISH FOOD. 

THOUSANDS OF TONS ARE TAKEN AN- 
NUALLY. 

Conservation Laws are designed to make Fish and 
Game and Birds more abundant and are vitally neces- 
sary for National Welfare. 

THE MAN WHO ILLEGALLY TAKES GAME 
OR FISH OR KILLS BIRDS DECREASES FOOD 
RESOURCES AND DEFRAUDS HIS COUNTRY. 

REPORT VIOLATIONS TO THE NEAREST 
GAME PROTECTOR. 

FISH AND GAME DEPARTMENT 

of 

VERMONT 



The game is owned by all the people 
and the ninety per cent or more of the 
population who do not shoot game, 
must still assist in protecting their 
rights in the game and their right to 
leave a heritage in wild-life. 

HAYES LLOYD 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 856 547 1 



